2014年7月5日 星期六
明報網上版 Editorial The Occupy Central rehearsal
明報網上版
Editorial The Occupy Central rehearsal
【明報專訊】AFTER this year\'s July 1 march, some protesters, responding to the calls of the Hong Kong Federation of Students, staged a sit-in in Chater Road as a rehearsal of the Occupy Central movement. On the one hand, such a development indicates that things in Hong Kong have now reached a critical point, where violent clashes or bloodshed could happen anytime. On the other hand, we were deeply impressed by the professionalism and efficiency the police displayed in the clearing of the sit-in, which, as witnessed by journalists and broadcast live on television, was meticulously executed.
Some commentators are of the opinion that the Occupy Central movement is nothing to be afraid of, as the rehearsal did not turn violent. It is true that protesters wearing Guy Fawkes masks or surgical masks, who are active participants in mass demonstrations, were absent from the Occupy Central rehearsal. But no one can guarantee that they will not show up next time. These protesters, or other people bent on radicalism, could turn up anytime and stir up trouble under the pretext of supporting the Occupy Central movement. It is an undeniable fact that these radicals have repeatedly staged "follow-ups" to mass demonstrations, which invariably ended in confrontations and clashes with police. The assertion that the Occupy Central movement will not turn violent, based on the observation that its rehearsal did not turn violent, simply does not hold water.
Despite their restraint in handling the demonstrators, the police have come under quite a lot of criticism. Participants in the rehearsal were brought to the Police College in Wong Chuk Hang. Some are complaining that they didn\'t have a chance to consult with their lawyers. Some say that they have been denied water and food. These are complaints the Independent Police Complaints Council should investigate. However, some people are saying that the protesters were peaceful and the police should not have dispersed them. Some even insist that the police should have waited until 8 o\'clock yesterday, when the protesters still at the scene, who were in their dozens, would have surrendered to demonstrate their willingness to honour their promise. We beg to differ.
First, the Hong Kong Federation of Students had declared that they would stay in Chater Road from midnight to 8 o\'clock the next day. No matter what the protesters called the event, there is little doubt that they were an unlawful assembly, as they had not sought the police\'s approval. Whether it was peaceful or violent is beside the point. Furthermore, had the police put off dispersing the crowd, what could they have done if the protesters broke their promise and refused to leave at 8 o\'clock? And let\'s not forget that the protesters were an unlawful assembly. The police officers would be considered these protesters\' accomplices had they taken the "promise" seriously. We don\'t see why the police should have done that.
Those who have leveled criticism at the police include members of the Legislative Council and influential opinion leaders. Their freedom of speech must be respected. However, they should understand that things are now very sensitive at the moment and that their opinions carry weight. They should endorse what is right and denounce what is wrong. It is irresponsible for them to make comments out of political considerations, political necessity, or political interest. For this will mislead Hong Kong people and add uncertainty to Hong Kong\'s already precarious situation.
明報社評 2014.07.03﹕事關香港命運安危 支持警隊依法履行職責
7．1大遊行之後，部分人士響應學聯號召，留在遮打道預演佔領中環。事態發展至預演佔中，反映香港情勢已到臨界點，隨時有可能出現衝突以至流血局面。警方清場有條不紊，在傳媒目擊、電視即場直播下，執勤警員表現出來的專業和效率，使人印象深刻。
由於預演佔中平和落幕，有不少意見解讀為佔中不可怕。預演佔中這類群集會場合，經常出現的戴V煞面具、口罩男等人物，雖未見出現，但是下一次呢？根本無人可以預測這類
（明報製圖）
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2014年7月3日 星期四
2014年6月1日 星期日
Tower block murder suspect 'kills himself' after shooting drama leaves one other dead
Tower block murder suspect 'kills himself' after shooting drama leaves one other dead
Two members of the "Flying Tigers" police special duties are waiting to climb into the flat when several flashes and smoke are seen from inside the flat. Photo: Dickson Lee
A jobless ex-convict shot himself dead 12 hours after he was suspected to have killed an air-conditioning technician neighbour, in a drama that saw the firing of seven gunshots and 20 rounds of teargas and stun grenades in the Kowloon Bay public housing estate.
A police source told the South China Morning Post said mental illness was among their lines of investigation and they were probing more on the background of the gunman, Lee Tak-yan, 51, and whether he knew the victim, Li Kai-chung, 43. Both lived in Lok Ching House of Kai Ching Estate, which was only completed last August.
“At this stage, [a] mental problem is one of the possibilities” the source said, adding the gunman, who was later found to have possessed two guns at his flat, was released from jail last year for a non-triad related wounding case in 2011 in Tin Shui Wai.
Both Lee and Liu had a wife on the mainland. Liu, an air-conditioning technician, is survived by his wife in Zhuhai and a five-year-old son who lives with his sister in Hong Kong.
Drama unfolded around 11.20pm on Saturday night when residents of the Lok Ching House heard arguing followed by three gunshots and discovered the man dead on the 21st floor lift lobby.
Watch: Man believed to be suspect of Hong Kong tower block killing sent to hospital
The source told the Post that the CCTV footage showed the gunman taking the lift with Liu and other residents.
“CCTV footage showed they did not have any conversation inside the lift,” the source said.
Liu walked out onto the 21st floor and Lee followed. Residents called the police after hearing gunshots.
Police said an initial examination showed two shots hit Liu in the chest and one in his back. Three 7.62mm-calibre empty cartridges were found at the scene.
The source said the CCTV footage of the lift and security guards helped indentify the suspect. Lee was believed to have taken the staircase back to his 10th floor home as the footage did not show him taking the lift after the shootout.
“Special equipment was used to spy inside his flat to ensure that Lee was alone inside and no one was taken hostage,” the source said.
The police cordoned off the 10th floor in the morning and phoned residents there to stay indoors and lie on the ground.
Shortly before 11am, the suspect fired two shots at the police, who returned one shot. No one was hurt.
Lee then clambered onto a window ledge and pointed a gun at his own head for less than one minute, as more than 150 officers wearing body armour surrounded the building.
A fourth gunshot was heard from the flat at around 11.13am.
Smoke and sparks were seen as officers fired over 20 rounds of teargas and stun grenades to break into the flat about 30 minutes later. A pair of ’Flying Tigers’ special duties officers slid down ropes from a flat above and entered the apartment.
The suspect was found lying unconscious in the flat, and was then rushed to the United Christian Hospital where he was declared dead.
Watch: Police ask reporters to take cover after fresh gunshots heard in Hong Kong Tower
Police believe Lee killed himself with a 7.62 calibre pistol, which is believed to be different from the one he suspected to have used to kill Liu as the bullets found were of different length.
Lee was released from prison in 2012 and moved into the Kai Ching estate last August. He had divorced his first wife and remarried, with his current wife living in China. He had no previous record of psychiatric illness.
All residents entering and leaving the building were searched by police officers in the lobby on Sunday morning.
"Do I need to get myself one of those bulletproof vests too?" asked one resident, surnamed Chan, when told by neighbours that the assailant may still be hiding in the building.
The 67-year-old who lives on 33/F said he had not heard any gunshots last night and thought the Kai Ching Estate was a safe neighbourhood.
When asked whether the police had taken enough precaution in re-opening the building on Sunday morning allowing residents to enter and leave, Chau said: “When we confirmed which floor the suspect was living in, we closed all passages to that floor. It was safe for other residents to go freely in and out [of the building].”
One resident of the building said he had heard the voices of quarelling men both before and after last night’s shooting.
Liu lived alone in a flat on the floor where he was found.
He moved in last December, said Chau. Police officers found nothing illegal in his flat and nothing is believed to have been taken. He is not thought to have had a triad background.
“We so far believe and suspect that the incident may be related to his background and whether he had contracted any enmity. We are investigating in this direction,” said Chau.
He added that police were also looking into whether the shooting may be related to his work or whether he had committed any crime.
One male resident who had children said he was very scared. “I heard quarrelling noises, they were very loud and were still shouting after the gunshots.”
Another man living nearby said, “I heard three shots – bang, bang, bang… I think they were around two to three minutes apart.”
Residents of the public housing estate complained that they had not been kept informed about the incident.
A resident who lives on the eleventh floor, one story above the gunshot scene, said police gave no information to them about the operation.
"I heard officers walking and talking outside my house this morning," said the man surnamed Lau, who moved into the block in November. "But I've received no calls so far from [the police] to tell me to stay at home whatsoever."
He said he received information from TV news.
He lived in the flat with his wife and daughter and said he didn't know his neighbours, but public security of the block was generally "acceptable".
Another resident, 24-year-old Sandy Lam Yung-yin who lives on the 30th floor, said no one had called her to tell her what to do.
"I called the estate management office and only got told to stay home. Many elderly people live next door and they didn't know what happened," she said.
Lam added that the public security of the block was sometimes unsatisfactory.
"There's sometimes only one security guard monitoring the whole building. When's he's away patrolling, the main entrance will be left unguarded," she said.
But she added that she has seen no suspicious people wandering around on the estate since she had moved in last November.
Many residents of Kai Ching Estate either live alone or are new immigrants from the mainland, said a resident surnamed Wong, who was among the first batch to move into the building last summer.
"We [local Hongkongers] are the minority here," she said. "Many residents here are very hot-tempered and I often hear noises downstairs when some swear loudly at night when they forget the door passcode."
Investigations by the Regional Anti-triad Unit of Kowloon East are under way. Police are calling on anyone who witnessed the incident or has any information to offer to contact the investigating officers on 2726 6272.
2014年5月23日 星期五
2014年5月22日 星期四
2013年11月23日 星期六
【燜】慢煮盡吸湯汁精華
明報網上版
【燜】慢煮盡吸湯汁精華
MingPao 2.4 Coded by ManInNet
【燜】慢煮盡吸湯汁精華
【明報專訊】近日天氣已悄悄轉涼，吃熱騰騰的燜煮菜式來暖胃，最合時宜。
有時大家會把「燜」寫作「炆」，據《辭源》指出，「燜，用文火燉熟。玉篇有『燘』字……作『爛』解。」大概是指用慢火將食材煮熟；而「炆」在《辭源》裏解作「溫暖之氣」，並不包含烹煮的意思。因此，用「燜」字來形容烹調方法，較為恰當。
燜扣烹調有別
食材加湯煮至酥軟
燜是粵菜常用的一種烹調方法，「愛吃家常便飯」的創意及營運總監郭漢平（Paul）表示燜是指將材料放入鑊、窩或煲等烹調器皿裏，加入水或湯用中至大火煮至沸滾，再轉用慢火，經長時間烹煮，把材料煮至入味和酥軟腍滑。他說﹕「有些燜煮菜式還有一個重要步驟，那就是在長時間烹煮後，加蓋『』5至10分鐘。『』即是熄火加蓋焗一陣子，使食物更加入味。」
鴨件先爆炒蒸發水分
菜肴加入水或湯燜煮前，食材通常要預先經過汆水、拉油、爆炒或煎等程序。以「石窩南乳西蘭花啤酒燜鴨」為例，鴨件要先用薑、蒜爆炒，「當鴨肉內的水分稍為蒸發時，加入南乳和上湯燜煮，鴨肉便可吸收到湯汁的精華。因為用這方法烹煮，食材很容易入味，基本上不用預先醃製。」Paul說。至於在燜煮鴨件後，加入啤酒則屬他的創意之舉，「剛燜煮好的食材的熱力，可使啤酒內的酒精揮發，留下啤酒獨特的麥香味在鴨肉上」。
「扣」醬汁濃稠靠加芡
他又指出，雖然「燜」和「扣」的菜式很相似，都是濃稠的醬汁包裹食材，但在烹調方法上，兩者是有分別的。他說﹕「『燜』是用長時間將湯汁內的水分慢慢煮至濃稠，而『扣』通常加芡使湯汁變稠。」
掌握火候免焦
燜煮的菜式看似簡單，但其實只要稍欠經驗或失手，隨時會把材料煮得太濃或太淡味，甚至煮「」。富豪金殿行政總廚楊嘉輝笑指﹕「這要看廚師的經驗，掌握火候和時間要很準確。」
邊煮邊攪防黐底
他表示，「燜」的火候主要是先中至大火，繼而轉至慢火。若一直用中大火燜製肉類，肉質難以做到酥軟效果。上海經典菜式「紅燒肉」，其實也屬於燜煮菜，只是「紅燒」是指食材經過拉油，再用比慢火稍強，但比中火稍弱的火力，以醬油等材料燜製而成。此外，要留意湯汁的濃稠度，「通常燜至最後階段，湯汁愈來愈稠，很容易焦。因此，一定要有人看火爐，控制火力大小，以及加以攪拌材料防止黐底」。
海斑先炸後燜
他又指出，不同肉類或材料，燜製的時間也有別，時間太短，材料不夠入味和腍滑；時間過久，肉質又會太過鬆散。以「雙冬燜黑草羊煲」為例，因為肉質纖維豐富，需先用中大火燜半小時，再以慢火燜兩小時，最後熄火焗半小時才完成；而「蒜子竹笙燜海斑」，原條海斑需先炸香，再以蒜頭、竹笙及上湯燜約20分鐘即成。他笑謂，海斑要夠新鮮，炸及燜後才可保持嫩滑。然而，若燜得太久，魚肉始終會「」，影響口感。
法式燜煮 打足一周「甂爐」
法國傳統煮法稱作燴
在法國菜中，也有不少慢火長時間的燜煮菜式，英文通常寫作Braise或Stew，中文譯作「燴」。French Window法籍總廚Matthieu Bonnier表示，燜煮方法在法國源遠流長，「以前人們沒有雪櫃，長時間烹煮菜式是保存食物的其中一個方法」。例如Pot au feu，是類似港式打甂爐，但烹煮時間可長達一星期。第一天會把大塊肉和蔬菜放進湯裏以微火煮，頭幾天先吃蔬菜，其間會不停加入蔬菜，到第五六天才吃肉，因肉經過數天燜煮，已變得非常腍軟，最後第七天便把濃郁的湯喝光。而紅酒燴雞（Coq au vin），亦是一個法國很傳統的菜式。必須選用公雞，因公雞較母雞少脂肪，肉質較粗糙，較適合透過燜煮來把肉質變得軟腍。燜煮的湯汁由紅酒、紅蘿蔔、洋及香草等製成，「香草放入一個類似茶包的袋子裏，這樣較容易控制香草的味道，如thyme比較霸道，放在袋裏可減低苦味浸出來。此外，香草也不會在湯汁裏亂跑，影響賣相」。
紅酒紅蘿蔔香草做湯汁
他指出，Braise和Stew很相似，廣義來說，兩者意思互通，「Stew是Braise的其中一種，在我角度，Braise是指熱力在食材下方傳上，而Stew的熱力則是來自四方八面，例如把湯汁和肉類放在鍋裏後，放入焗爐烹煮」。
他又表示，現在科技先進，慢火配合長時間烹煮（slow cook）已不止於Braise和Stew，還有把食材放入真空袋，再放到恆溫的水裏慢煮等方法。
■info
（a）愛吃家常便飯
地址﹕大角嘴海泓道1號奧海城3期地下G22號
查詢﹕2618 2316
（b）富豪金殿
地址﹕銅鑼灣怡和街88號富豪香港酒店3樓
查詢﹕2837 1773
（c）French Window
Brasserie and Bar
地址﹕中環港景街1號國際金融中心商場二期3樓3101號舖
查詢﹕2393 3812
文﹕梁翠薇
圖﹕黃志東、林俊源
編輯﹕梁小玲
石窩南乳西蘭花啤酒燜鴨——餐廳強調不加味精、少油、少鹽和少糖，菜肴依然濃郁惹味。因為鴨件以南乳汁燜製，上菜前加上啤酒為鴨肉增添麥味，使味道層次更加豐富。（$78，a）（林俊源攝）
籠仔芹香芋荷燜黃油雞——嫩滑的黃油雞配西芹和芋頭梗，以蠔汁及上湯燜香，再以荷葉包裹，使荷葉的香氣滲進雞肉之中。（$88，a）（林俊源攝）
黑椒鹹豬手——豬手以黑椒及洋等製成的秘製醬汁燜煮45分鐘，燜煮前需先用叉子在原隻鹹豬手的表面刺洞，使豬手更易入味。（$128，a）（林俊源攝）
郭漢平（林俊源攝）
薑蜆芥肥牛燜米粉——選用較香滑的台灣新竹米粉，焯熟後煎至脆身，再以薑蜆芥及上湯慢火燜製至入味。（$148，b）（黃志東攝）
蒜子竹笙燜海斑——原條海斑先炸香，再以蒜頭、竹笙及上湯燜約20分鐘，屬湯汁較多的燜煮菜式。（$388，b）（黃志東攝）
雙冬燜黑草羊煲——選用新鮮黑草羊腩，先以白鑊快炒，將水分逼出，再以南乳和腐乳燜煮至入味。富豪金殿行政總廚楊嘉輝表示，羊腩要原塊燜煮，使整塊羊腩能味道勻稱，最後才切成細件上菜。（$388，b）（黃志東攝）
滬江紅燒肉煲——豬腩肉先汆水及拉油，以醬油、冰糖、紹酒及香料等，用慢中火紅燒至湯汁濃稠即成，配以百頁結和海參，不浪費每一滴醬汁精華。（$178，b）（黃志東攝）
楊嘉輝（黃志東攝）
法式紅酒燴牛臉頰伴薯蓉——Matthieu形容牛臉頰是整隻牛中最美味的部分，因「牛整天都在吃草，不停咀嚼，是身體運動最多的部分，肉味也是最香濃的」。（$298，c）（黃志東攝）
法式紅酒燴雞伴寬條麵——公雞以紅酒醃製12小時後，煎至表面金黃色，再放入紅酒、紅蘿蔔、洋及香草等製成的湯汁燜煮，打開煲蓋，熱騰騰的蒸氣湧出，雞肉未放進嘴裏，已感到幾分暖意。（$198，c）（黃志東攝）
Matthieu Bonnier（黃志東攝）
MingPao 2.4 Coded by ManInNet
石窩南乳西蘭花啤酒燜鴨——餐廳強調不加味精、少油、少鹽和少糖，菜肴依然濃郁惹味。因為鴨件以南乳汁燜製，上菜前加上啤酒為鴨肉增添麥味，使味道層次更加豐富。（$78，a）（林俊源攝）
籠仔芹香芋荷燜黃油雞——嫩滑的黃油雞配西芹和芋頭梗，以蠔汁及上湯燜香，再以荷葉包裹，使荷葉的香氣滲進雞肉之中。（$88，a）（林俊源攝）
黑椒鹹豬手——豬手以黑椒及洋等製成的秘製醬汁燜煮45分鐘，燜煮前需先用叉子在原隻鹹豬手的表面刺洞，使豬手更易入味。（$128，a）（林俊源攝）
郭漢平（林俊源攝）
薑蜆芥肥牛燜米粉——選用較香滑的台灣新竹米粉，焯熟後煎至脆身，再以薑蜆芥及上湯慢火燜製至入味。（$148，b）（黃志東攝）
蒜子竹笙燜海斑——原條海斑先炸香，再以蒜頭、竹笙及上湯燜約20分鐘，屬湯汁較多的燜煮菜式。（$388，b）（黃志東攝）
雙冬燜黑草羊煲——選用新鮮黑草羊腩，先以白鑊快炒，將水分逼出，再以南乳和腐乳燜煮至入味。富豪金殿行政總廚楊嘉輝表示，羊腩要原塊燜煮，使整塊羊腩能味道勻稱，最後才切成細件上菜。（$388，b）（黃志東攝）
滬江紅燒肉煲——豬腩肉先汆水及拉油，以醬油、冰糖、紹酒及香料等，用慢中火紅燒至湯汁濃稠即成，配以百頁結和海參，不浪費每一滴醬汁精華。（$178，b）（黃志東攝）
楊嘉輝（黃志東攝）
法式紅酒燴牛臉頰伴薯蓉——Matthieu形容牛臉頰是整隻牛中最美味的部分，因「牛整天都在吃草，不停咀嚼，是身體運動最多的部分，肉味也是最香濃的」。（$298，c）（黃志東攝）
法式紅酒燴雞伴寬條麵——公雞以紅酒醃製12小時後，煎至表面金黃色，再放入紅酒、紅蘿蔔、洋及香草等製成的湯汁燜煮，打開煲蓋，熱騰騰的蒸氣湧出，雞肉未放進嘴裏，已感到幾分暖意。（$198，c）（黃志東攝）
Matthieu Bonnier（黃志東攝）
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